luberon Archives - Curious Provence

The Bells of Bonnieux

September 22, 2020 by ashleyt 8 Comments

Our Experience with the Church Bells of Bonnieux

Vincent gils bonnieux carillonneur. Church bells of bonnieux. — Vincent Gils, Carillonneur (bell-ringer) of the Èglise Haute de Bonnieux.

Recently, we stayed in the hilltop village of Bonnieux in the Luberon valley of Provence where we were treated to a singular sensory experience. We reached out to Vincent Gils, the only carillonneur (bell-ringer) left in the Vaucluse area and one of few left in France.

Vincent’s father, Bernard, taught him to ring the bells. Before him, his father was the custodian of this church, at the summit of Bonnieux, with 900 years of history. His father says that “Pour moi, mon clocher, c’est un piano volant” (for me, my bell, is like a flying piano). Nowadays, churches in France have automated bells. However, in Bonnieux, bells are rung by hand for mariages, baptisms, funerals and religious festivals. Vincent has been doing it for the last thirty years. He agreed to allow us to witness the ringing of the bells as he was on that day going to pay homage to a villager, a good friend, that passed away that week.

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Instameet day out in the Luberon

September 3, 2020 by ashleyt 4 Comments

CuriousProvence day out with the Luberon Tourism Office

Last month I was invited to attend a day out that was held by the LuberonCoeurduProvence Tourism office. The day was a discovery of well known as well as lesser-known gems of the Luberon. Although the schedule was a secret (I’m not keen on surprises!) I accepted and so glad that I did. If you’re curious, scroll on to see the places we explored.

Luberon day out — Mérindol ruins. Off the beaten track in the Luberon.

Merindol – Gateway to the Luberon

Our first stop was in Mérindol, a village right on the eastern edge of the Luberon. It’s a village that I have to admit I’ve often passed but never stopped. Although, I had read about it’s history…

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Cucuron Tuesday Market

October 18, 2019 by ashleyt 2 Comments

Visit this small market, just 35 minutes from Aix en Provence, as a starting point for visiting hilltop towns in the Luberon National Park.

A Cinematic Setting

You may recognise the beautiful basin of this small Luberon town from the film “A Good Year” starring Russel Crowe. (See the date scene). Every Tuesday, there’s a small market here around the Étang (a rather more glorious version of a pond, I can’t really find an English equivalent). The market is small but includes saucisson (cured meats), olives, produce from local producers and some artisans. The market will have less stalls in winter but still worth a wander even if it’s just an excuse to have lunch, or take a cooking class, as I did a few years ago, at La Petite Maison du Cucuron. These images are from the market in September.

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Early Spring Landscapes in Provence

March 31, 2018 by ashleyt 7 Comments

May I brag for a moment? Just look at how beautiful these landscapes are, even at this time of year. Most of these pictures were taken with my phone, as many were impromptu pit spots on the side of the road. Which is your favourite photo? Let me know in the comments below.

Early morning in Gordes.

Spring in Provence

I’ve noticed a sudden change this weekend in more visiters to the area. (Basically in the form of jostling for the parking spot outside my house).

Early Spring is wonderful time to visit Provence. Easter weekend is when many businesses re-open after the restful winter months. Although the poppies may not be out yet (soon), the evergreen Cypruses and olive trees colour the landscape as well as the flowering blossoms. I’ve learned to appreciate the low season pastel light in the villages because without leaves on the trees, you can see more clearly the beautiful architecture.

Here are some photos from my travels around the area in the last 3 weeks. Enjoy!

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Farmers Cooperative in Coustellet

July 28, 2017 by ashleyt 1 Comment

I recently participated in a cooking class held by Jean Marc Villard of French Cuisine cooking classes in Maubec. Jean Marc, passionate about local produce, started the class by taking us to Naturellement Paysan, the local farmers cooperative in Coustellet. See my article on the gourmet cooking class.

This cooperative is not only amazing if you can’t make it to your nearest Provencal market, it also stocks products that you can only buy directly from the producers such as award-winning saucisson, meats, and cheeses. You can be assured that the animals used to make these products live with dignity and even very happily!

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Visit Beautiful Gordes Market on Tuesdays

July 14, 2017 by ashleyt 18 Comments

Beautiful Gordes Market in Pictures

Gordes, classified as one of the most beautiful villages of France. This famous hilltop town looks out over the Luberon National Park. You feel obligated to stop your car driving into the village as the village is arguably even more beautiful from the outside. The architecture here is similar to the bories village settlements where dry stone dwellings were made from rocks in farming land. You can visit some of these settlements nearby the town. All to say, Gordes Market is worth visiting if you’re in the area.

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Winter Day Out in Saint Saturnin les Apt

January 27, 2017 by ashleyt 9 Comments

I love exploring Provence in the winter. It’s quiet. You can linger in the streets of small towns (like Saint Saturnin les Apt) to appreciate little details such as potted plants adorably shoved onto windowsills. Or, the particular stunning shade of peach on a weatherbeaten shutter.

Weather in Winter

People often ask me what the winter weather is like here in Provence. This year has been colder than last. We rarely get snow and when we do, it tends to last the morning. The worst is the wind. The famous Mistral wind is fierce and has been known to drive people mad with the noise it creates. It also blows for days at a time, lending itself to a certain mythological nature.

The Luberon National Park

The other day we took a drive through the Luberon. If you’re unfamiliar, the Luberon is what I always describe as France’s Tuscany. Imagine rolling hills, large stone farmhouses, perched villages and plentiful orchards of cherry, and olive trees. In summer, the region is quite busy due to Peter Mayle’s first book “A Year in Provence” and the subsequent film, A Good Year, starring Russell Crowe.

Saint Saturnin Les Apt

Saint Saturnin Les Apt is not as well known as Gordes or Menerbes. It’s a wonderful start for a winter day out. We often visit more than one village during our drives throughout the Luberon.

Saint Saturnin Les Apt is quiet and full of beautiful colours. There’s generally a café open to savour a hot chocolate after you’ve taken in the wonderful views over the upper Luberon national park.

The town was occupied throughout antiquity as a Ligurian, Celtic and then Roman site. In 1190, Saint Saturnin les Apt was the fief of the Agoult family.

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Apt Saturday Market- One of the Best?

March 21, 2015 by ashleyt 13 Comments

Is Apt Saturday Market one of the best?

The Saturday market in Apt has been labeled as a “marché d’exception français” (exceptional French market) due to it’s atmosphere, history, and originality. It’s also considered to be one of the top ten food markets in France. I had to see for myself…

Apt Market in Spring

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