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Our New Home in Provence

December 12, 2019 by ashleyt 12 Comments

house in provence
It ain’t pretty…yet.

Selling our House on Le Bon Coin (in a week!)

After much deliberating, at the beginning of this year we decided to officially put our tiny house up for sale in Maussane-les-Alpilles. The year that followed was an absolute whirlwind.

We were confident our house would sell relatively quickly since there isn’t a lot for sale at the lower end of the market here in Les Alpilles, especially in chic Maussane. Also, did you see how charming it is? 

le bon coin
Example of things you can find on Le Bon Coin. Dentures which someone only used for 17 meals! HAHAHAHA! (oh, and our house)

We put the house up on Le Bon Coin, which is the marvellous French version of Craigslist, or Gumtree or Kajiji or whatever equivalent you have in your country. The next day was a chilly day in February when I started to make one of my favourite curries to warm our bones that evening. Since our renovation and Househunters Intl show we had quite a few curious glances through the windows so I was used to it and thought nothing of the man looking anxiously into my living room. When he let himself into the courtyard however… I opened the door, and was surprised to learn that he had seen the announcement on Le Bon Coin and wanted to tour the house. His wife had sent me a message as well through CuriousProvence Facebook about 15 minutes before he arrived. I didn’t realise that it was her until that evening. 

An Impromptu House Visit- with Curry

kitchen in provence
Our kitchen in Maussane. Tiny- but pretty.

Now, traditionally one is supposed to put a loaf of bread in the oven or even bake a batch of cookies (in the western world anyway) to conjure up the sexy smells of domesticity in order to sway potential buyers. NOT, especially for the non-spice-loving French, a curry! Panicking, I pleaded with this mysterious man that was adamant to see the house to come back in an hour. While I couldn’t do anything about the curry I could at least tidy up. So, after 55 minutes of running and scrubbing and throwing things into closets (everything except the cat), the man promptly reappeared on my doorstep as I still had the vacuum in hand. 

He asked if we had done all the renovation ourselves. Yes. That was his only question. He walked quickly through the small house, studying nothing. He was there about three minutes. When he left without saying anything I of course didn’t get excited and got back to the numerous emails from real estate agents that were desperate to get the listing. 

Three Offers in 36 Hours

When you put your house up for sale by owner on the Bon Coin local real estate agents contact you incessantly, all vying for your listing. The problem is of course the fees. They’re somewhat negotiable if you’re confident like I was. The fees are a larger percentage for less expensive houses about 7%, which may make sense to them but not to us! In the end, I was wrangled into an agreement by an agent that agreed to a 5% fee of the house sale and a “contrat simple”, where we’re allowed to sell the house ourselves if we receive an offer.

The day I signed the agreement, she brought over a couple to look at the house. The next morning, we had an offer. They wanted absolutely all the furniture, including the art on the walls, so that they could rent it out immediately on AirBnB. 

I sent an email to the mysterious man, just in case he was serious, informing him that we had received an offer of the asking price but with the furniture and through an agent. I knew that his wife loved the house and had seen the articles about our renovation on this site. Five minutes later, he counter-offered with 4,000€ less but there would be no fees. We would still receive more money. 

Promesse de Vente

moving house
Our sweet retired fat kitty was the last thing to be moved from our house. She’s not keen on leaving.

That night, I signed a Promesse de Vente (a promise of sale) with the anxious young French couple. The next morning I went to our neighbour’s for the obligatory weekly cup of coffee and told her the good news. A couple hours later, she ran over to the house screaming and waving her arms “Ashley Ashley Ashley!!!” In her Provençal accent. She blurted that her son wanted to buy our house.

She hadn’t told him that is was up for sale and when she called and told him that morning he was angry at her for not saying. Our house was the end sliver of a large mas, or provencal farmhouse. As the son would eventually inherit, if he bought our portion he could knock down the walls and make an even bigger house, as it was originally. Anyways, all to say, after some inquiries we learned that we were bound to the promesse de vente that we had signed the night before. Three offers for the house in a space of thirty six hours. Phew! It was exciting! 

Looking for Our Next House in Provence

Meanwhile, the ongoing search for something to buy ourselves was becoming nail-bitingly desperate. We had been looking for over a year and had only visited five houses in our budget. There really wasn’t much in our category. One dwelling was a falling down barn made of horse hair and mud surrounded by pear trees on a main road. Another was a nice house in Maussane, behind the butcher (his bathroom looked onto the garden) but with no access to one’s front door without crossing the grumpy neighbour’s garden.

Another was a 1960s depressing bungalow in Paradou in a suburban development that would honestly only be a fixer-upper for the least amount of time possible. We couldn’t even see ourselves living there. We looked at a confusing house in Mouriès, again on the main road, that was a farmhouse cut into odd segments. For sale was the room above the neighbour’s garage, and the room next to the garage but no access between the 2 rooms unless you go outside. That would be interesting on a chilly January morning in our pajamas. 

Odd Arrangements

fixer-upper

When the farmhouses were left to multiple children in the family, (see Napoleonic code) the dividing up of the houses was not always rational or agreed upon. For example, the last house we saw was a dream house in Oppede. Overlooking vineyards and the Luberon mountain we had to check the price on the listing numerous times. It was less than 150,000 €. When we arrived at the house we promptly understood. The property had suffered a hostile division between the previous owner and her cousin. The cousins didn’t speak to each other except to exchange complaints. The houses were originally one large farmhouse, an almost hamlet at the end of a dirt road. Surrounded by beauty but stuck together, the cousins made life as difficult for each other as possible. Sounds like a perfect sitcom.

They grew plants in front of the other’s windows. Blocked the driveway and were unreasonable about “passages” that were common territory. We were welcomed by the estate agent into a war zone that was only initially obvious by the many human-sized creepy doll scarecrows on the driveway. I think it was a ploy to scare potential buyers off. It worked. Well, that and the fact that the only way to install a much-needed septic tank would be on the other’s land. As if she’d let us! 

Scouring the Internet

Robin spent hours scouring the internet for listings. There are many estate agencies here which all have only a few listings each. Either way, perhaps our budget was too low for agents to waste their time with but they all told us just to look online. Thanks for the help! Many houses have one dark picture and little information, as if they don’t want to sell. Many others don’t want to give you the information or pictures because there’s an odd sharing situation with the neighbour or some other odd thing like the cousin situation. 

A Farmhouse in Provence

dream house in provence
Obviously not quite what we bought! Ha! This is Le Mas des Poiriers in Villeneuve-les-Avignon, where Barack Obama and his family stayed this summer. Follow this property’s Instagram for dreamy pictures of wedding and vintage car rallies in Provence.

We were considering the depressing bungalow until Robin found a listing on a notary’s site. Sometimes notaries (le notaire) sell the house directly for a client, though they still have their own in-house real estate agent. The house, in Mollégès, was much larger than our house in Maussane (thank goodness). We saw the potential instantly. It had a plane tree, a barn to convert into a rental (!!!) and was within baguette-throwing distance from the nearest bakery. I have to admit I allowed myself to be slightly enamoured by the fact that the owner’s grandfather used to grow vegetables for the market. Consequentially, the garden was filled with random seedlings of wheat, camomile, mint, sage, spinach, savoury and more. In the summer we found sunflowers, tomatoes, potatoes and courgettes (zuchinni) too. 

kitchen garden vegetables

Yes. We bought that house in June. But first, we had to beg our bank for a mortgage. This process takes at least three months here in France, and that’s after you have all the paperwork and have exuded false confidence. It got to the point where there was 5 weeks between when we would have to hand over our house before we could move into the new one. The couple buying our house wanted the house asap and wouldn’t agree to let us stay unless we paid what they thought to be the reasonable price of 60€ a night. That adds up quickly. 

A friend of a friend had a beautiful shell of a house in the middle of St Remy that was possible to rent. So we moved once more than necessary. We didn’t have internet or electricity for the first week but it was June and the weather was gorgeous. When we finally exhausted ourselves and moved into our new home in Mollégès (how does one manage to acquire so much junk even living in 38m square?), it felt like a dream. However, the previous owner warned us. “This place is paradise in summer, hell in winter.”

Paradise in Summer, Hell in Winter

Looking at the house last March. First time we saw it! It isn’t very provencal at all in style, but we’re going to remedy that.

The previous owner, a 40 year old fireman, has for the past two years been selling off the large parcels of land that used to be attached to the house. As a consequence, there’s new houses all around us. He saved the house for last, and sold it begrudgingly, after what we suspect was a tricky divorce. He told us that he doesn’t like foreigners though liked the fact that we were young. Whatever that means. That was before he ranted at Robin that a man must be a man in the Mediterranean. This isn’t Paris. Oh don’t we know that! ha! I paid for our coffees myself in front of him as he stared at Robin mouth-agape.

He informed the notaire that he would be dismantling and taking the poele (freestanding fireplace that runs on wood pellets), the only heat source in the house. The notaire looked at me and I read in his eyes that I would have to fight for that poele, and dammit I did! Robin was going to let him have it. Thankfully I put my foot down because it allows us the luxury of one warm in the house. Sadly that room is not the kitchen, so we’ve taken to cooking meals that take the least amount of time possible as we stand next to the oven (on if we need it or not) warming our hands in coats and scarves. Cooking with a scarf on is not ideal. I’ve learned the messy way.

Mollégès

Our barn, that will be converted into a two bedroom rental. The severe slant on the roof has made drawing out the plans tricky but we’re almost there.

We’re the only people on our street that aren’t related to everyone else. Or, in fact, people keep coming up to us in the village and telling us that the previous owner had been their cousin, or their second cousin or other. So, basically the only people not related to everyone in the village. Ha!

Mollégès, in a way, is like going back in time. Maussane was chic and right in the Alpilles National Park, which I miss, but people are kinder here. More relaxed. If you see the vegetable seller in another village he comes up to you to give you the bises (kiss greeting). It’s a quiet town where you hear people on horseback for their Sunday rides each weekend. The local bar owner welcomed us to town with a free glass of wine and I’m on a tutoyer basis already with the Post lady. There was apparently a worrying verbal agreement with our neighbour’s grandfather and the previous owner’s grandfather that she had 2 metres of our land. That may be tricky eventually…

House History

hay in a French barn
We have hay!!

The previous owner gave us all the documents that he had on the house (as well as a rather lost of dusty hay). The oldest house sale record we have is from 1893. The barns are older than the house but we don’t have exact dates. The owner in 1893 was a café owner, the subsequent two owners were farmers. There’s everything from a sausage drying room, to rabbit hutches, and jam making pots. Should we start our own smallholding? I’ve always like goats…

Visiting a local goat farm on one of my CuriousProvence Tours.
Documents from the 1800s in our attic.
Treasures in the attic?

The last owner (the grandfather) bought the house on viager. This is when you “buy” a house from the current owner but allow them to live in it until their death. Their agreement was that he would pay 5,000 francs to the older man every year until his death. Upon his death, the house would be his. This used to be more common but still takes place in France. It’s a gamble and something we entertained. I like that in their agreement (which I have a copy of) there was one stipulation by the old man that the new owner was not allowed to destroy any of the vines or Cyprus trees in the fields until his death. I like his style. 

removing hay
Getting started to getting rid of some of that hay!

Getting started with Clearing and an Architect

Curiousprovence
Taking a very brief break during the busy summer photography and tour season to enjoy the garden.

For the first time we have a garden of our own, weedy as it may be. A plane tree. A horse chestnut and two tiny figs. Two grape vines and a few raspberries. We also have junk. Soo much junk. The previous owner left us years of rubbish, a couple rusty treasures but mostly rubbish. We’ve found 1950s pushchairs, photos, pots and pans in the garden, broken chairs and enough bullet-making equipment to arm a hungry gang of French hunters for at least a season. The past few months have been spent clearing, by consequence trying to figure out the best way to bribe the decheterie (local waste disposal) girls.

For the past few months we’ve been waking up to rivers in the bedroom, getting electrocuted in the shower, and learning what it’s like to live in a house with absolutely no insulation. We each know when the other gets out of the shower from the yelps and squeals in the freezing air.

Needing an Architect to ask for Town Hall Permission

Our architect, necessary to ask for permission from the town hall to renovate, is trying to work quickly as even she was laughing at the fact that we could see our breath in the house. I told her about the fact that I’ve taken to mopping the walls with bleach twice a week to counteract the mold and her eyes widened. We’ve been to her office every Friday for the past six weeks, trying to get her to understand our Anglo-Saxon vision of bathrooms. Because yes, you guessed it, we bought another serious fixer-upper. 

This is the state of the barn on the day we bought the house.

At Least a Five Year Project

Tiles left in an outdoor room/shed. The first project is the roof so they may come in handy!

For those of you that are curious, you’ll have to be patient. This time we’ll be working at the same time as renovating, so the process will be painfully slow. We also need to wait for permissions from the town hall. Absolutely everything will have to be redone including the roof, windows, doors, floors, plumbing, electricity…everything!

The last time the house was touched was in 1967. We interestingly have all the renovation documents from then- I wish it were still the same prices! We’ve taken on something a lot more than our bank accounts can handle. You don’t even want to know the cost of doing the roof. Perhaps we’ll set up a gofundme in exchange for stays in Provence? Any takers? It’s going to be difficult, and long, and tedious. But I’m quite certain that one day, it’s going to be beautiful. 

Next time- see how our plans evolve. But for now… to the hay! (ok it’s not Robin but at least he’s ginger? 😉

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Buying a home in provence, fixer-upper provence, Renovation Provence, selling a house in provence

December Events in Provence 2019

November 30, 2019 by ashleyt Leave a Comment

saint Remy de Provence in December
Saint Remy de Provence Christmas Market

Although Christmas in Provence is not quite the same as it is in Alsace there are plenty of markets and festive activities to attend Provence-style. Many of the artisan markets are small and held at vineyards or hotels so its can be tricky to find out about them if you don’t go every year. I personally think the inspiration for gifts are more interesting and unique at these markets not to mention you’re supporting local artisans. If none of these are close to you don’t worry! Just about every town in Provence has its own little Christmas market. There’s even a website where you can find out the dates of all the Christmas markets in France. Or another, Noel.org. Of course, some have already passed like the Sénas-Alsace market or the Foire du Gras but there are many more to experience.

Many of the markets in larger towns are open all month long until Christmas. You’ll find these markets in Marseille (on the old port), Salon (town centre), Aix en Provence (Cours Mirabeaux), Istres, Toulon, Draguignan and more. These month-long markets add to the overall festive atmosphere but I have to admit that I prefer the smaller markets that are only for a weekend.

Here’s a sample of some December events in Provence.

Yummy Fougasses!

Feel free to add more in the comments!

30 Nov- 1st December

Marché de Noël à Cuers


This small market is particularly family friendly. Look out for Santa, or Père Noël, as he’s scheduled to make an appearance at 3pm on Sunday. Located in parking François Mitterrand.

Marché de Noël à Tarascon
Visit Tarascon town centre to find the Christmas market and soup making competition.

December 1st

Marché des Vins Beaumes de Venise
Stock up on some delicious sweet wine in Beaumes de Venise. Salle des Fêtes 10am-6pm.

1-8

Marché de Noël à Cassis*

cassis marche de noel

A Christmas market on the mediterranean? Yes please!

1-29

Marché au Santon Aubagne

marche de noel aubagne

This is a great market if you’re interested in Santons, the small provencal figurines that are used to populate nativity scenes in private homes. In the capital of Provencal pottery, Aubagne, you’ll find many local versions of these santons as well as other ceramic delights.

6-8

Marché de Noël à Pelissane
Go on Sunday for a double Christmas and food market in this town.

Etsy Made in France Nice
24 artisans are exposing at the Hotel Le Royal 23 promenade ses Anglais à Nice. 6 décembre from 17h à 20h – 7 & 8 décembre from 10h à 19h

Christmas Market at Hotel Mirande in Avignon*
This is a gorgeous Christmas market in Hotel Mirande. Lots of local artists as well as a room full of gourmet treats. Make sure to do downstairs. Did you know this hotel offers lovely cooking classes?
Friday, opening night, 18h-23h. Saturday, 11h-23h. Sunday, 11h-21h.

Marché de Noël des Créateurs à Château Henri Bonnaud

Christmassy wine tasting

Taste the wines from this vineyard while sampling local bites.

7

Fête des Lumières in Saint Remy*

Saint Remy on Fête des Lumières

This is a relaxing way to spend a chilly evening in St Remy. Most commerces stay open and many offer apéritifs. Wander the medieval streets in the twinkle lights with mulled wine. Come see us at the Savoir Faire des Alpilles art collective. Also, you’ll find an excellent Christmas market at Hotel Gounod.

Fête des Lumières à Isle sur la Sorgue

Raclette à Volonté in Avignon

Get in my belly!

As much racelette as you cat eat for 25€ at this Avignon restaurant. Cow and goat cheese varieties on offer. Sounds kind of amazing! Call Restaurant Le Bercail to reserve. 04-90-82-20-22.

7-13

Etsy Made in France Marseille
Did you know that there were Christmas markets that bring together Etsy artisans. I just found out about this- too cool! Find a market with many creatives selling their unique works from the Provence region. Held at WAAW rue Pastoret (Cours Julien) in Marseille, you can even opt for the ultimate hipster experience by attuning the opening night where there will be a DJ and tattoo artists.

7-8
(looks like a big Christmas market weekend in Provence)

Foire provençale de Noël – Auriol

In the historic town centre.

Marché de Noël Eyguieres

Provencal and Italian specialities at this weekend Christmas market.

Marché de Noël à Lambesc

Marché de Noël des créateurs – Sanary sur Mer

100% local artisans at this market in beautiful Sanary sur Mer.

13-24

Marché de Noël à Martigues
There are all kind of activities on offer during the festive season here including an ice rink for skating. Esplanade des Belges (Jonquières)

14-15

Grand Marché des Créateurs Marseille

Large artisan market on Cours Julien in Marseille from 10-18h. You’ll find ceramics; paintings, sculptures, home decoration, jewellery and more.

21

Christmas Fireworks in Isle sur la Sorgue
Fireworks for the family at 19h15 in Parc Gauthier. Park opens at 6:15pm.

21-22

Grand Marché des Créateurs Marseille

Large artisan market on Cours Julien in Marseille from 10-18h. You’ll find ceramics; paintings, sculptures, home decoration, jewellery and more.

Which Christmas markets will you be attending? I’ve marked some of my favourites here with an asterisk.

Filed Under: Festivals and Events Tagged With: christmas markets provence, December in Provence, December provence, provence at christmas

Marché Flottant in Isle sur la Sorgue

November 1, 2019 by ashleyt Leave a Comment

Isle sur la Sorgue

The Marché Flottant, or floating market, is an annual market in Isle sur la Sorgue. It’s every first Sunday of August. Locals in traditional dress load up their “Nègo Chin” (traditional Provençal boats) with olives, lavender, truffle products and all sorts of provençal specialties. You can stand on the side of the river or docks and buy directly from the boats. The small floating market is visually stunning; it transports you to another time. See pictures below.

Isle sur la Sorgue market
Bunting throughout the streets of Isle sur la Sorgue in celebration of the floating market.
Isle sur la sorgue floating market
The boats are ready for the vendors.

Because the annual event is in August, the riversides get very busy. The Marché Flottant is also happening during the large weekly Sunday market. I would have it another day of the week but that’s just me! If you’d like to witness this stunning floating market, I suggest you go as early as possible, watch for 15 minutes or so, and then move on to a café down the river to give other people a chance to buy their tapenade. The boats are selling on the river from 9am to 1pm. You’ll find the market on only one part of the river, behind the town hall (Marie).

marché flottant isle sur la sorgue
Waiting for the market to begin.
Isle sur la Sorgue floating market
olives isle sur la sorgue
Olives and tapenades made by the local company Delices du Luberon.

This little boy selling the local La Provence paper was just too cute!

marché flottant isle sur la sorgue
marché flottant isle sur la sorgue
isle sur la sorgue French market
isle sur la sorgue Sunday market
Pumpkin soup anyone ?

The Sorgue River

The beautiful clear water of the Sorgue river used to serve as an important part of local industry. Not only was there a lot of fishing here but you’ll notice moss-covered water mills throughout the town where all kinds of products used to be milled such as olive oil or chickpea flour. Visit the nearby Fontaine de Vaucluse to see the mysterious source of the Sorgue river. Fontaine de Vaucluse is the biggest spring in France. Despite being part of a trade route used by the Romans, the picturesque town was also made more famous by the poet Petrarch, who lived in Fontaine de Vaucluse in the 14th century.

marché flottant isle sur la sorgue
provence market curious provence
garlic provence
Never too much garlic in Provence !
French market
CuriousProvence
isle sur la sorgue floating market
floating market isle sur la sorgue
Whoops under the tree!

Sunday Market All Year Round

If you can’t make it to the marché flottant, the Sunday market in Isle sur la Sorgue is an excellent market and goes all year round. This is also the town where you’ll find the third largest antiques market in Europe. If you’d like to book a foodie market tour with me, see Curious Provence Provence Market Tours.

Isle sur la Sorgue

Filed Under: Days Out, Festivals and Events Tagged With: August Events Provence, Isle sur la Sorgue, marché flottante, provence floating market, summer in provence

Cucuron Tuesday Market

October 18, 2019 by ashleyt 2 Comments

Visit this small market, just 35 minutes from Aix en Provence, as a starting point for visiting hilltop towns in the Luberon National Park.

cucuron market

You may recognise the beautiful basin of this small Luberon town from the film “A Good Year” starring Russel Crowe (see end of article for the date scene). Every Tuesday, there’s a small market here around the Étang (a rather more glorious version of a pond, can’t really find an English equivalent). The market is small but includes saucisson (cured meats), olives, produce from local producers and some artisans. The market will have less stalls in winter but still worth a wander even if it’s just an excuse to have lunch, or take a cooking class, as I did a few years ago, at La Petite Maison du Cucuron.

cucuron tuesday market
72% Olive Oil soap made in Marseille. See here for more information on how it’s made: Savon de Marseille.
cucuron tuesday market
There’s never enough garlic in a Provencal kitchen !
cucuron tuesday market
If you’re visiting during the summer months there is an additional market in Cucuron on Friday evenings, which is very atmospheric. There is often live music and the restaurants and cafés are bustling. The nocturnal market is from mid July to mid August.
cucuron village restaurant
Wander away from the market and discover the colourful streets of this sleepy town.
provencal village fountain
cucuron village colourful
As you explore the medieval streets of the old town, keep in mind that this site has been occupied since Neolithic times. Some of the oldest buildings, such as the Castrum, are from the 11th century.
cucuron ramparts
cucuron village
Looking out from the village you’ll see cherry orchards, grapevines and cypresses surrounding farmhouses.
Cucuron view
Despite the cloudy skies pictured here from when I visited a couple weeks ago, Cucuron enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year, or so the town hall website repeatedly claims.
cucuron view luberon
If you climb to the church you’ll see Luberon views in all directions. After the market head to Lourmarin to check out the many art galleries there or go for a hike at close-by Fort Buoux ruins.

The Cuc’ Factory

the cuc factor Cucuron

If you’re in Cucuron anytime from May to September, it’s worth visiting the Cuc’ Factory, a local artisan cooperative. You’ll find all kinds of events on their Cuc’ Factory Facebook page. There is locally made pottery, clothes, etchings, jewellery and more.

Have you seen this charming movie based loosely based on Peter Mayle‘s book of the same name? I’ve recently re-watched it and was delighted to recognise many of the local towns/scenery.

On a Budget?

When Robin and I first moved here we were located in Lambesc and would often stop in Cucuron on our way to explore other Luberon villages. Our job at the time was basically glorified housesitting for a “folie”, or small castle. I’ll let you imagine how well that paid. We needed to optimise every cent of that measly salary. We also needed a large supply of rosé to keep us going through the uncertainty of our decision of moving to France, to keep us warm in the freezing cottage we lived in, to garner our strength to face the slugs and scorpions that climbed up the walls all evening (inside) and the constantly barking guard dogs. All to say, we needed A LOT of rosé.

Domaine les Conques Souliere in Cucuron sell their fruity rosé starting at 1,40€/litre and it is much better quality than any 5£ bottle we bought in England. If you’re driving to France, stock up here! You’ll also find Vin Cuit, or cooked wine, a local speciality consumed at Christmas as well as olive oil. Look for their sign “Producteur Vins” on a small street in town. For more about the joys of cheap rosé see my article on bidon wine. Santé !

cucuron market provence

CuriousProvence Market Tours

If you’re curious, find out more about the market tours I offer all year round in Provence in the Alpilles and Luberon regions.

Filed Under: Local Markets Tagged With: cucuron, cucuron hilltop town, cucuron market, luberon, luberon tuesday market, tuesday market provence

La Courge en Fête

October 1, 2019 by ashleyt Leave a Comment

October Squash/Gourd Festival in Rians

If I had to pick my favourite autumn festival in Provence it would be the Fête de la Courge in Rians. The same weekend as Canadian thanksgiving, this fête gets me into the autumn spirit every year. You’ve probably noticed my absolute admiration for the French ability to have a festival in honour of each locally grown fruit or veggie (see fête de la fraise/strawberry festival, fête du gras/fat festival…duckfat!) The Fête de la Courge is no exception. 

la courge en fete
  • veloute courge

During the festival, this small town is absolutely invaded with multiple varieties of squash and gourdes. You’ll find mountains of pumpkins and wooden crates full of decorative gourdes. There are all kinds of food products for sale that incorporate squash including: soupe de courge au cèpes (squash soup with porcini mushrooms), confiture (jam) à la courge, organic squash beer, squash amaretti and a plethora of home-baked goods. Eating at the festival is also part of the experience. There are enormous amounts of paella (I counted 15 last year!!), slow cooked beef stew with squash, soups and more to warm your bones as you wander the stalls. 

Local artisanal cheesemakers.
Mandatory cake baked by local granny.
That’s a lot of food!

The Fête de la Courge hosts a parade as well as other autumn-themed stands. Local artisans open their doors to the public and farmers proudly display their produce. All to say, mark this festival on your calendar. It’s especially fun for the kids, or your favourite foodie (like me).

  • Vendu!

Useful Information :

What: A Provencal Pumpkin festival- can’t be bad. 

When: October 12-13. Stands open at 9am. 

Where: Centre Ville Rians (1hr NE of Aix en Provence)

Parking: Free parking in fields at the edge of town

See more information about specific events on the La Courge en Fête Facebook page. Maybe take part in the most attractive/ugliest squash competition?

Make a day of it: 

What better goes with pumpkin than a bottle of wine? If the hearty stew doesn’t take it out of you why not go wine tasting nearby? Visit beautiful Château Vignelaure or if you like biodynamic wines Château Revelette is excellent. It’s best to reserve tastings at both where you’ll get an in-depth tour of the vineyard, cave and tastings. 

Fete de la Courge

Filed Under: Festivals and Events Tagged With: autumn festival provence, fete de la courge, gourd festival, October in provence, pumpkin festival provence, squash festival provence

Alpilles Oil Paintings

October 1, 2019 by ashleyt 10 Comments

These are my newest oil paintings inspired by the Alpilles landscapes around Les Baux de Provence, Saint Remy de Provence and Eygalières. They can be viewed at Le Savoir Faire des Alpilles art collective in Saint Remy de Provence. Comment below if you like them!

olive tree les baux de provence
Olive Groves of Les Baux de Provence (sold)*
alpilles eygalieres oil painting
View of les Alpilles, Eygalières
olive tree les alpilles provence
Olive Groves, Les Alpilles (sold)*
alpilles almond blossom
Alpilles Almond Blossom

These colourful paintings are 220€ each including shipping (240€ for North America). They are 30x30cm oil paintings. Email me (curiousprovence@gmail.com) or comment here for more information.

Filed Under: Art by Ashley Tagged With: alpilles paintings, Oil paintings provence, olive groves provence, provence artist

New Fleurs Sauvages Cyanotype Series

June 18, 2019 by ashleyt Leave a Comment

As the Spring wildflowers give way to the blooming lavender, I present to you my Spring wildflower cyanotype series for 2019. A big thank you to Nicky at the NG Creative Art Residency in Eygalières that allowed me to use the studio space and exhibit there.

  • Cyanotypes by Ashley Tinker CuriousProvence
    Cyanotypes by Ashley Tinker CuriousProvence
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Filed Under: Summer in Provence Tagged With: artist in provence, cyanotypes, photographer in provence, provence artist

May Events in Provence 2019

May 3, 2019 by ashleyt 1 Comment

arlesienne 1er mai
An Arlésienne at the Fête des Gardians in Arles

On the 1st of May, make sure to visit the celebrations in Arles where the Fête des Gardians takes over the city. Worth a visit! You may even see the queen of les Arlesiennes.

This is the month of public holidays in France. Make sure to be aware of store closings. I would just give up on getting anything official done this month. Beware of “faire le pont” where everyone combines a public holiday with a weekend- even if the holiday is in the middle of the week!

You’ll find the landscape to be full of red poppies, wild peas, elderflower, rocket and more. The markets display stunning varieties of artichokes, peas and mountains of fresh herbs. Book an insider’s market tour with me if you’re curious.

Jours Féries/Public Holidays:

1 mai : Fête du Travail (French Labour day, A LOT is closed. Luckily, there are numerous festivals. This is when I met my man 11 years ago. The public holiday was the excuse for drinking all his wine and eating all his chocolate while stranded at a youth hostel in deep wine country Languedoc….

8 mai : Victory in Europe Day 1945

30 mai : l’Ascension

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: may events in provence, may in provence, spring in provence

A Day Out in Sète

April 13, 2019 by ashleyt 3 Comments

Recently, I spent a day out in Sete with Nancy McGee of Absolutely Southern France. She was excited to show me around her adopted home and I, ever curious, was happy to come along a day with her. We actually found that that we have common very close family friends, but that’s another story!

Lous XIV chose Sète as the place that the Canal du Midi would join the Mediterranean. In addition to the important port, Sète is also known for the jousting tournament that takes place every July since 1666. The town has always piqued my interest because of this special tournament.

Looks serious! Nancy mentioned I may be able to do it this year as part of the opening day ceremonies. The thought of it terrifies me!
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Filed Under: Days Out Tagged With: Day out in Sète

April Events in Provence 2019

April 7, 2019 by ashleyt 2 Comments

April Tendencies

foraging curious provence
Foraged finds from a recent rather long walk. Roquette (arugula), flowering rosemary, wild asparagus, aneth, and flowering thyme.

So I’m perhaps little nuts but at this time of year I love to sit in the evening with a glass of wine, talk to my man and shell fresh peas. Those plump lovelies are so delicious it’s worth the effort, and relaxing too.

Right now in the Luberon it’s all about the cherry blossoms. There are many weekend vide greniers and lots of fresh foraged asparagus, arugula/rocket, thyme and more to be had in the hillsides.

Yesterday, we spent 3 hours at the notary as we’re buying a house. It’s a complete ruin and very old so all the boundary lines are tricky. There’s even a secret passage! Things won’t really move ahead for another couple months (it’s France) but exciting nonetheless!

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Filed Under: Festivals and Events Tagged With: April in provence, spring in provence

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Ashley

curiousprovence

Photographer, Guide, Artist and Foodie. Learn about this Curious Canadian living in Provence here.

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