Curious Provence

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Michelin Restaurants in Provence

January 19, 2021 by ashleyt 2 Comments

Michelin restaurants in provence

The inspectors of the Michelin Guide must have had a trouble visiting all the restaurants they wanted to this year. Due to Covid-19, restaurants here in France have been closed for some time. I even heard that a local three star Michelin has resorted to offering take-out. Well, why not?

Despite these difficulties, restaurants were open during the summer months here in France, and as a result, the 2021 updated Michelin Guide was published yesterday. This is always the source of a little gossip here in food-obsessed France. Which local restaurants received a star? Which had one taken away?

A Memorable Experience

Robin and I have only eaten in about a handful of Michelin star restaurants. They’re a special occasion. A memory to make. Clients often ask me about the Michelin restaurant options here in Provence, and there are many. If you’ve never eaten in one of these restaurants, unless you’re Gérard Depardieu, don’t book two in a day! Believe it or not, I had a client, with a heavily pregnant wife, do just that. I think they went to two of the seven that they had booked.

Eating in these restaurants, depending especially on the number of stars, are longer even than the usual French dining affair. Eating in a Michelin star restaurant is an experience, not just a meal. The food is often rich. It isn’t, at least for me, for the every day.

I personally love good quality bistro food, with a little creativity thrown in. Bistronomie. You can experience something like this in Michelin star restaurants through their lunch menus which are often surprisingly affordable. A little luxury doesn’t always have to break the bank.

In case you’re a little confused about the different classification of restaurants, here’s a guide to The Guide. Scroll to the bottom for a list of Michelin Restaurants in Provence (2021).

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Filed Under: French Culture Tagged With: eating in provence, Michelin star restaurants provence, restaurants in provence

The Bells of Bonnieux

September 22, 2020 by ashleyt 8 Comments

Our Experience with the Church Bells of Bonnieux

Vincent gils bonnieux carillonneur. Church bells of bonnieux.
Vincent Gils, Carillonneur (bell-ringer) of the Èglise Haute de Bonnieux.

Recently, we stayed in the hilltop village of Bonnieux in the Luberon valley of Provence where we were treated to a singular sensory experience. We reached out to Vincent Gils, the only carillonneur (bell-ringer) left in the Vaucluse area and one of few left in France.

Vincent’s father, Bernard, taught him to ring the bells. Before him, his father was the custodian of this church, at the summit of Bonnieux, with 900 years of history. His father says that “Pour moi, mon clocher, c’est un piano volant” (for me, my bell, is like a flying piano). Nowadays, churches in France have automated bells. However, in Bonnieux, bells are rung by hand for mariages, baptisms, funerals and religious festivals. Vincent has been doing it for the last thirty years. He agreed to allow us to witness the ringing of the bells as he was on that day going to pay homage to a villager, a good friend, that passed away that week. 

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Filed Under: French Culture, Summer in Provence Tagged With: bonnieux, church bells of bonnieux, french culture, French tradition, luberon, provence culture

Digestifs to Order in Provence

March 22, 2020 by ashleyt 1 Comment

Digestifs help you digest! And get naked?

In certain parts of Europe you’ll be offered a digestif automatically at the end of the meal. In the French alps, at the end of the meal, strong Genepi will be plunked onto the table. If you find yourself in southern Italy or Sicily, it’ll be Limoncello (hopefully homemade), and in Corsica, you’ll be offered a choice of Myrtle liqueur or Chestnut liqueur. Watch out though- digestifs are often quite strong and if the men around the table have had enough to drink, the digestif degustation, or tasting of all the available digestifs you have in your cupboard, may become a contest. I briefly worked in one restaurant that would leave the bottle on the table and allow you to drink as much as you like! 

Brandy, fortified wine and liqueurs are all popular digestifs in France. In Provence, you generally won’t be automatically offered a digestif except if you’re in the mountains. I suppose our food is lighter here so you don’t need as much help burning a hole in that solidified fondu in your stomach. However, there are some specialities from Provence that you can ask for to keep you warm on your walk home. 

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Filed Under: French Culture Tagged With: alcohols provence, digestifs provence, digestives provence, French digestifs, provencal digestifs

Le Temps Retrouvé Heritage Festival in Les Alpilles

March 5, 2020 by ashleyt Leave a Comment

Le Fête du Temps Retrouvé can be badly translated as a festival of “time regained” or “time found again.” Essentially, it’s a festival that aims to transport you back to a bygone area that celebrates village community, savoir-faire (craftsmanship) and recreates the atmosphere of the previous century.

This heritage festival occurs every year at the end of August in the town of Maussane-les-Alpilles. I have to say that it’s one of my favourite festivals. It’s usually on the last Sunday of the month. If you miss it, there is also a similar festival called Journée à l’Ancienne in Eygalières in the Autumn.

 Le Temps Rétrouvé is mostly on the Main Street in Maussane-les-Alpilles where you’ll find all the stores have stands in front of them celebrating traditional craftsmanship. For example, even the hairdresser is dressed in vintage clothes and has a display of beautiful vintage scissors and shaving implements. You can easily spend the day wandering the stalls, having a pastis at the local café and people watching. See end of article for more festivals in Provence.

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Filed Under: Festivals and Events, French Culture, Summer in Provence Tagged With: alpilles festivals, festivals in provence, provence culture, provence heritage, provence in august

My Experience Working in a French Restaurant

February 27, 2020 by ashleyt 3 Comments

French waiter
Paris Cafe De Flore Waiter, by Cyril Jayant

Throwback! This is an article that I shared with OneModernCouple about my experience working in a French restaurant in 2016. 

The First Day

I tip-toed into the dining area as the sound of the repeated yelling of the words “putain, merde!!” came from the kitchen. The fear that manifested as a slight queasiness intensified as I was faced with the head chef/owner. The commis was looking listlessly at his sunken soufflés. I hoped that I would do better on my first day. 

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Filed Under: French Culture Tagged With: expat in provence, expat life, expatlife

5 Reasons to Visit the Dordogne, France

April 18, 2018 by ashleyt 6 Comments

dordogne by curious provence chateau monbazillac

Château Monbazillac in the distance.

The Dordogne is located in southwest France, in the region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. It’s situated between the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees, and is named after the Dordogne river that runs through it. We were lucky to visit this area of France for a photo assignment last year and we are not disappointed by the calming landscapes, towering castles and quaint villages. 

chateau Montaigne

Château de la Montaigne

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Filed Under: French Culture Tagged With: afrenchview, dordogne, reasons to visit the dordogne, southern France

More Expat Silliness

September 5, 2017 by ashleyt 4 Comments

Life in Another country as an Expat Part II

Life as an immigrant in another country is never easy. There are so many things you have to think about, for example, if you are working in the US you might have to consider getting an extension. You’re allowed to stay in the country over the period specified in your visa-but you’ll have to file Form i-539. This is an application that means you can change or extend your nonimmigrant status. This is only one thing that immigrants have to deal with, it depends on the country you’re staying in and how long you intend to stay. If you’re interested in learning more about immigrates not having it easy in a country, keep on reading…

A friend of mine recently managed to mix up the French work to cook “faire cuire” with to drive “conduire.” This resulted in her explaining to the butcher how she was going to drive the chicken with lots of butter and herbs. It took a good 5 minutes of hand motions before all the employees understood what she was saying. This was only because they brought out someone’s kid from the storage room who understands a good amount of English thanks largely, to Netflix.

Here’s a continuation of some of my personal anecdotes that were so popular in my original article about life in France. Feel free to add some of your own!

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Filed Under: French Culture Tagged With: expat life, expat on france

My Vegbox in Provence

October 14, 2016 by ashleyt 2 Comments

French seasonal produce from a weekly vegbox

The contents of my vegbox in Provence. Delivered to my door every Friday.

May I brag for a moment?

Have you seen how ridiculous this Provençal version of a vegbox is? This was in September. We started receiving our vegbox during the summer when I found out that half my street also gets the same parcel delivered once a week by a local Paysan. Why didn’t anyone tell me sooner?

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Filed Under: Foraging/Wild Things, French Culture Tagged With: cheap vegetables france, french culture, french lifestyle, french vegbox, fresh, hipster lifestyle, organic, provencal vegbox, provence, provence cuisine, provence lifestyle, quality produce, saint remy de provence, vegbox

Must See in Provence: Abrivado-Bandido

July 18, 2016 by ashleyt 8 Comments

camargue horse provence

Abrivado-Bandido in Provence: A Village Event

This past weekend, in our small town, there were constant animations of live music, parades, and lots and lots of bull running to celebrate Bastille Day. While visiting Provence, you must see one of these abrivado-bandido events.

Before the weekend tall steel barriers were installed all along the main road to protect against charging bulls. Announcements in just about every language are made to let people know that you just might find an enormous black bull on the road!

The abrivado-bandidos in Maussane occur in the late morning rather than in the evening. This is ideal as, although the young kids who’s job it is to try and stop the bull are younger, it doesn’t attract the heavy drinking pastis atmosphere of the older youths; leading to some pretty dangerous behavior! Last year, we lived in Noves and oh my the whole village smelled like aniseed. Not that I’m anyone to judge with my copious rosé drinking…

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Filed Under: Festivals and Events, French Culture Tagged With: abrevado-bandido, abrivado, bandido, camargue horses, maussane-les-alpilles, provencal traditions, provence, provence culture, things to do in provence, things to see in provence

25 Ways to Stand out as a Tourist in Provence

May 13, 2016 by ashleyt 7 Comments

sheep provence

Ways to Stand out as a Tourist (in Provence)

Other than the Obvious Language Issue

Disclaimer: these are gross generalisations made from our personal observations. And, I’m quite frankly guilty or have been, of many of these.

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Filed Under: French Culture Tagged With: how to behave while traveling, how to stand out as a tourist, tips on visiting france, tourism, tourists in france, tourists in provence, when visiting france

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