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I am not a vegetarian myself but am often asked where to find veggie-based meals in a country that is still very much in love with meat and potatoes. Here is a list of vegetarian restaurants or restaurants with vegetarian options in Provence focusing on Saint Rémy de Provence and Aix en Provence. There are of course more in Salon de Provence, Marseille etc. Post your favourites in the comments!

Although we have some of the best veggies & fruits I’ve seen anywhere, it can be difficult to find a vegetarian meal here in Provence. We do have more choices than regional cuisines in other parts of France as many of the specialities here are indeed veggie based such as tomato tart, tapenades (of all types- some have anchovies), crème d’artichaut à l’ail, Soupe à la Pistou, Papeton d’Aubergines etc. However, these are the types of dishes that people cook at home, not necessarily those they eat in restaurants.

If you’re pescatarian you’ll have no worries and will be able to try regional specialities such as Pissaladière, Bouillabaisse, local oysters (from Bouzigues) and mussels, Salad Niçoise (Côte d’Azur area), Pan Bagnat etc.

I once worked in a French restaurant where the chef believed that vegetarians need therapy.. Ha! Thankfully, things are beginning to change even here in the countryside where you’ll often find the staples of lamb, pig trotters and bull on the menu.

In this land of excellent cheese you may still be hard pressed to find vegan food in particular. I’ve included a few options here. When making a reservation you can ask if a vegan option is available; the chef will usually accommodate you.

Here is a list (helped by your suggestions via Instagram) of restaurants with vegetarian options in Provence (other than Pizza).

Saint Rémy de Provence

Terre et Blé
Open for breakfast and lunch, this bakery/restaurant focuses on organic vegetarian dishes every day except Friday where you can have a fish option and Wednesday where there’s a meat option.

Chapeau de Paille
In the summer they have a Soupe au Pistou (beans, courgettes, provençal pesto) option. Otherwise, ask for vegetarian options. All organic.

Edu
This restaurant specialises in small plates. You can find something for everyone here.

Le Roma
Fresh pasta and ice cream

Bistrot Steak House
Yes crazy but a few people have told me that their vegan burger is delicious!

Bienbon Café
Excellent coffee, very fresh ingredients from local producers
(usually have vegetarian options but best to ask in advance)

Aix en Provence

MANA
Many vegetarian and vegan options here! Popular for brunch.

La Cabane en Ville
Vegan

Café du Temps
Vegetarian food with outside terrace

Chez Ama
Ethiopian Cuisine
(I have not tried this one myself but hear good things)

La Plume Vegetale
Popular Vegan restaurant

Tita
Falafel in Aix !

Hotel Gallifet
Fresh local ingredients on the terrace and a new pop-up chef every year (open during the summer)

Other Places in Provence

La Terasse (Goult)
Bistro with a terrace, menu changes often

Le Saint Hubert (Saint Saturnin les Apt)
Vegetarian friendly with a beautiful view!

Tulipe (Avignon)
Excellent coffee and vegetarian meals

L’Epicerie (Beaucaire)
Simple menu, family-owned, vegetarian friendly (though sometimes the special of the day isn’t vegetarian- can call in advance)

BEAM ! (Toulon)
Fresh ingredients, beautiful presentation.

Le Jardin Secret (Cotignac)
Vegan friendly (just ask!)

L’Émulsion (Villeneuve-les-Avignon)
Healthy, refined cuisine (with vegetarian options)

The inspectors of the Michelin Guide must have had a trouble visiting all the restaurants they wanted to this year. Due to Covid-19, restaurants here in France have been closed for some time. I even heard that a local three star Michelin has resorted to offering take-out. Well, why not?

Despite these difficulties, restaurants were open during the summer months here in France, and as a result, the 2021 updated Michelin Guide was published yesterday. This is always the source of a little gossip here in food-obsessed France. Which local restaurants received a star? Which had one taken away?

A Memorable Experience

Robin and I have only eaten in about a handful of Michelin star restaurants. They’re a special occasion. A memory to make. Clients often ask me about the Michelin restaurant options here in Provence, and there are many. If you’ve never eaten in one of these restaurants, unless you’re Gérard Depardieu, don’t book two in a day! Believe it or not, I had a client, with a heavily pregnant wife, do just that. I think they went to two of the seven that they had booked.

Eating in these restaurants, depending especially on the number of stars, are longer even than the usual French dining affair. Eating in a Michelin star restaurant is an experience, not just a meal. The food is often rich. It isn’t, at least for me, for the every day.

I personally love good quality bistro food, with a little creativity thrown in. Bistronomie. You can experience something like this in Michelin star restaurants through their lunch menus which are often surprisingly affordable. A little luxury doesn’t always have to break the bank.

In case you’re a little confused about the different classification of restaurants, here’s a guide to The Guide. Scroll to the bottom for a list of Michelin Restaurants in Provence (2021).

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