Curious Provence

a Curious Canadian in Provence : photography, art & renovation!

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Seven Years in Provence

January 19, 2021 by ashleyt 10 Comments

Curious provence Alpilles
An old soul searching for the slow life in Provence.

*2024 update : we’ve now been here for 10 years!

This past autumn, we passed our anniversary of living seven years in Provence. Seven years ago, on a morning with a pastel pink sky, we boarded the ferry from Dover to Calais. It had to be by ferry. It felt more symbolic.

We drove to Burgundy where we stayed in a little Bnb that we found in a tiny village. The architecture was already so different. Dinner was fresh goat cheese that we bought directly from the farm next door and baguette.

The next morning we drove south, south south until we saw the sign on the motorway “Route de Soleil” (the sunshine route). We exited the motorway and followed the map to our destination, which had no address. Of course, we couldn’t find it. We were looking for a château in the middle of seemingly nowhere that would be our new home. The owners were the only people to have answered to our ad on Gumtree looking for work in Southern France. It was a job as guardians. Or, glorified house housesitters. We drove to the nearest winery, bought some rosé to calm our nerves and asked directions. “Ah” they said. “That place?”. The vineyard owner didn’t bother to hide his concerned face.

We found the appriopriate large rusty gates and were greeted by our new employers that looked like something out of a Charles Dickens novel. We had been sent photos of the property that were 30 years old. And, well, the place certainly didn’t look the same…

Our move was a leap of faith. A trust in the world that everything would be alright. With little money, little French, and no contacts we started to build a life here. To be honest, for the first couple years we didn’t know what we wanted. Dreams of running a BnB? Not anymore.

For some odd reason we like to do things the hard way; moving to Provence wasn’t easy. It wasn’t all sweet-smelling lavender. But now we have a home that we’re renovating, friends, our businesses and a sense of belonging. We live in a stunning part of the world. This is not the story of the last seven years. I might have to save that for a book. But, I thought I would use this opportunity to answer a few questions that I’m often asked via email or Instagram.

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Filed Under: Summer in Provence, Uncategorized Tagged With: artist in provence, expat experience in france, expat in provence, living in provence

My Experience Working in a French Restaurant

February 27, 2020 by ashleyt 3 Comments

French waiter
Paris Cafe De Flore Waiter, by Cyril Jayant

Throwback! This is an article that I shared with OneModernCouple about my experience working in a French restaurant in 2016. 

The First Day

I tip-toed into the dining area as the sound of the repeated yelling of the words “putain, merde!!” came from the kitchen. The fear that manifested as a slight queasiness intensified as I was faced with the head chef/owner. The commis was looking listlessly at his sunken soufflés. I hoped that I would do better on my first day. 

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Filed Under: French Culture Tagged With: expat in provence, expat life, expatlife

Finding Spice in Provence

February 2, 2018 by ashleyt 5 Comments

The French are Saucy, but not Spicy

curious provence kitchen spices

A very small portion of my spice shelf.

Many expats move to lovely small towns in Provence and after a couple months being spoiled with ratatouille, slow cooked lamb, bouillabaisse and all other French Mediterranean delicacies, they start asking where is all the foreign food? It’s human nature to want more, isn’t it?

So pizza and the odd “nem chinois” available at the larger markets can be the extent of your horizon in some towns. Thankfully, there’s harissa and preserved lemons in many markets at the olive stands to mark the influence of Moroccan cuisine. But that’s about it!

Cook it at Home

Now, I’m not complaining (too much) because my man and I took to cooking curries and all kinds of particularly Asian flavours at home early on. We had, after all, moved to France from England at the time. International cuisine is the staple there! I also subscribe to my favourite food magazine, Delicious, which features recipes from all around the world on a monthly basis. I have to get my hands on those ingredients!

The French aren’t known for their love of spice. I once put too much pepper on a steak and had a Frenchie fanning his mouth as if it was a scotch bonnet! But, we can’t expect these Frenchies to be perfect, can we? They do have, after all, have Larousse Gastronomique.

If you’re living in a small town, your best bet is a large city in Provence. Many rural, even large grocery stores won’t carry such things as fenugreek, tamarind, hot smoked paprika, fennel seeds, Mirin sauce etc. Things are getting better, but I suggest going to Tam-Ky in Marseille. Stock up there to make your palate jump around with delight on that dreary Monday night.

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Filed Under: Eats around the World Tagged With: epicerie exotique marseille, ethnic food provence, expat in provence, expat life france, expat life in provence, foreign foods provence, international ingredients in provence, tam-ky marseille, tam-ky noailles

2 Year Anniversary of Curious Provence!

March 25, 2017 by ashleyt 2 Comments

Curious Provence Blog Anniversary

2 year anniversary of curious provence

Hello, dear readers! Celebrate the Anniversary of CuriousProvence with me!

It’s been 2 years since I’ve launched Curious Provence!

A blog takes a lot of love but reading your comments and emails I must say that it’s worth it. Thank you for your support!

A Promise

I’ve been wanting to address something for a while. There’s something you may not know about me. I’m terrible at lying. I would even venture to say that I just can’t do it. This is a virtue, though, as you can imagine, has gotten me into trouble. With age, I’m learning that lying can be beneficial. Especially for employers and the elderly. Kindness and lying sometimes go hand in hand. Anyways, I digress…

What I wanted to say is that I promise that you won’t find me promoting a product or activity on my site, or Instagram, that I don’t think is worth it. I get a lot of companies asking me to advertise their products without even testing them. I find this fundamentally wrong and quite frankly, unfathomable. Thankfully, in Provence, there are so many people that take their craft, no matter if it’s wine or woodworking, very seriously.

When it comes to restaurants; I just don’t recommend the ones where I’ve had bad experiences. Eating out is soo subjective. I need to eat somewhere a couple times at least until I decide. Anything you wanted me to do a review on?

On Living in France

There’s a theory with immigrants I’ve noticed. I wish I had known it before, though it may not have improved my patience. Apparently, once you’ve been in a new country for three years, it’s only then that you start to settle and find your place. I must say, it’s true.

It hasn’t been easy.

However, now that I’m reading French books (it seems I somehow got by without reading them in French class at school?) and I’m starting to make real friends, life is finally starting to make more sense.

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: blog anniversary, blogger in france, expat in france, expat in provence

A Canadian Expat in Provence

March 15, 2017 by ashleyt 1 Comment

I was interviewed last year by Adam Rozenhart, who hosts The Expats podcast, where he informally interviews Canadian citizens that have moved abroad. He wanted to know about my experience as a Canadian expat in Provence. 

It’s a great place to go if you’re going to be moving abroad and need more information about the process. For example, I didn’t realize that if you move to the US, you have no valid credit history. This can make it hard to get where you want to be financially speaking – so be sure to get a no credit history credit card and start building it up as soon as you can.

Why would one do such a thing? Listen to my (perhaps embarrassingly giggly) interview and find out:

http://www.expatspodcast.ca/episode-24-a-canadian-expat-in-provence/#

It’s amazing to find how much our situation changes here in France. We’re becoming more and more settled. I don’t think I could imagine moving back now.

Wondering what I do when I feel homesick? I take pride in my Canadian-ness and jive to this video:

See also: More Expat Silliness and Where to Meet Expats in Provence.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Canadian expat, expat in france, expat in provence

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