*2024 update : we’ve now been here for 10 years!
This past autumn, we passed our anniversary of living seven years in Provence. Seven years ago, on a morning with a pastel pink sky, we boarded the ferry from Dover to Calais. It had to be by ferry. It felt more symbolic.
We drove to Burgundy where we stayed in a little Bnb that we found in a tiny village. The architecture was already so different. Dinner was fresh goat cheese that we bought directly from the farm next door and baguette.
The next morning we drove south, south south until we saw the sign on the motorway “Route de Soleil” (the sunshine route). We exited the motorway and followed the map to our destination, which had no address. Of course, we couldn’t find it. We were looking for a château in the middle of seemingly nowhere that would be our new home. The owners were the only people to have answered to our ad on Gumtree looking for work in Southern France. It was a job as guardians. Or, glorified house housesitters. We drove to the nearest winery, bought some rosé to calm our nerves and asked directions. “Ah” they said. “That place?”. The vineyard owner didn’t bother to hide his concerned face.
We found the appriopriate large rusty gates and were greeted by our new employers that looked like something out of a Charles Dickens novel. We had been sent photos of the property that were 30 years old. And, well, the place certainly didn’t look the same…
Our move was a leap of faith. A trust in the world that everything would be alright. With little money, little French, and no contacts we started to build a life here. To be honest, for the first couple years we didn’t know what we wanted. Dreams of running a BnB? Not anymore.
For some odd reason we like to do things the hard way; moving to Provence wasn’t easy. It wasn’t all sweet-smelling lavender. But now we have a home that we’re renovating, friends, our businesses and a sense of belonging. We live in a stunning part of the world. This is not the story of the last seven years. I might have to save that for a book. But, I thought I would use this opportunity to answer a few questions that I’m often asked via email or Instagram.
The answers are defined by my own experience and many of those that I know that have moved here from abroad. However, there are generalisations here that you have to take with a grain of salt. But they have helped me to make sense of this place.
Moving to Provence – Settling In
How long did it take for you to get integrated into the French lifestyle? Is it easy to integrate?
The only way to really integrate is to have a job where you’re surrounded by French people. They say that when you move somewhere else, it takes three years to settle and I found this was definitely the case for me. I only felt really at home here after that time.
The process of integrating can be really challenging. You feel that in order to do so you need to challenge your preconceived ideas of how things should be done. You have to try every day to see where people are coming from culturally. And soon, you’ll achieve an understanding that allows you to weave in and out of two or more cultures. A sensitivity. There is no better way to learn this than travel or living in another country.
Are locals more relaxed in Provence?
Locals are definitely more relaxed here. Slow living and enjoying life are very important. It’s also the case that most jobs here are either in the tourism or agriculture sector. This allows for people to work hard but at the same time have more flexible schedules that allow them to go to the market on a Wednesday morning etc.
Did the French fully accept me or do I still feel like a outsider even once my French was fluent?
This will depend on which region of France you move to, or if you’re in a city or the countryside. Or, even, if you’re an outgoing person or not. Many French people that I know say that, as a rule, Northern French people are more welcoming. People in Provence are gregarious but can be guarded when it comes to making new friends. Here in the countryside especially. They assume that if you’re foreign, you’ll leave. After living here some time, I completely understand this. I also understand the wariness of foreigners buying property and then only spending a few weeks out of the year at that property. Yes, Parisians do this too. This drives property prices up and deprives local businesses in small villages of vital daily income.
The closest French friends that I have are those that have travelled/lived in other countries, deal with foreigners on a regular basis, or are interested in learning English. French people seem to be obsessed with where you come from. Rather than ask what you do for a living, they’ll ask where you come from. This is a cultural norm that is so engrained here that is can be exhausting because you’re constantly reminded of your otherness. It can be insensitive especially for minorities.
If you’re from Northern France living in Provence, you’ll always be an outsider in a way. Nevermind another country. Even from a different village! I have a neighbour that has never been to the market in the next village. She’s 85! The French also seem to have their own way of doing things and can be perplexed when you think a different way. But this may be the case in every rural society. I’ve never lived in a city here in France. I’m sure you’ll feel less like an outsider in a cosmopolitan environment. Due to all these reasons, we’ve learned to embrace being outsiders. In the end, I truly believe that we have the best of both worlds.
What is most difficult thing about establishing a new life in Provence?
Well, for us, there were a multitude of difficult things. Our experience would have been very different if we arrived in France with a job with a French contract. Contracts, especially CDI contracts, are important in terms of obtaining a bank account, loans, being able to buy/rent property and more.
Aside from work, finding good friends and the language is the trickiest. My friends are immigrants from around the world that are married to French people. In our close-knit group, there are about 9 different nationalities. This is great because we have already some common ground by being from somewhere else. To meet people you have to really put yourself out there. I went on several coffee dates with random people I had met through Instagram! You have to try and meet as many people ask you can. Robin and I are homey people so this was tricky for us at first.
Is it hard to move to Provence if you’re Canadian?
I get a lot of Americans asking me this question as they’re curious about the legal process. Unfortunately, I can’t answer this question with personal experience as Robin and I both have British passports. As Britain was part of the European Union, all we had to do was apply for a French Health Insurance card (Carte Vitale) and I could switch my Canadian licence for a French one as Canada and France have reciprocity with driving licences. Now we’ll have to apply for Carte de Séjours (French equivalent of a Green card) just like our Canadian/American friends. We’re also eligible for French Nationality, so I may soon have three passports. Yes, I am secretly James Bond…ha! If you’re American/Canadian looking to move to France, here are some resources:
How Americans Can Move to France
What does a typical day for you look like?
The answer is that there is no typical day for me. As I have so many interests and different jobs, it changes all the time! In the colder months, I spend time updating my website, helping Robin with the renovation, taking bookings for photoshoots and market tours, creating personalised itineraries, and painting. Covid has made a painter out of me. Oh, and also, I try to go on as many long walks as possible.
In the warmer (hot!) months, I’m usually being a foodie market tour guide as well as driving to gorgeous locations for early morning or late evening photoshoots. This past summer though, you’ll have noticed that I spent a lot of time exploring and posting on Instagram for all of you that couldn’t come to Provence last year. Oh, and making tomato sauce. So so much tomato sauce…
How is your renovation going? When will your rental be ready?
If you followed us during our previous renovation and the House-hunters International filming, you’ll be disappointed to see that I’m been a bit slow in updating about our current renovation here. You’ll see more in the daily stories in Instagram. Some of our issues are a bit tricky to explain in writing as well. Otherwise, I feel like the first year of living here we just spent time going to the déchetterie (dump). The previous owner left piles and piles of junk lying around everywhere.
Also, due to Covid, our renovation has been going a little slower that we originally thought. Robin is working on our house as well as on other projects at the same time. He’s also been agonising over where and how to build the staircase in the the rental. It’s difficult because the roof is so steeply sloped, none of the walls are straight, and we’re trying to make the space as beautiful as possible on a budget. Tricky!
As I write this, he’s currently in the barn installing the second floor. We’ve had the roof done and a couple walls. There is still just about everything else to do including pouring cement for a floor (it’s just mud!), installing beams, plumbing, electricity, a second floor, walls, insulation (lots of it) and so much more. Never mind the landscaping. That is just for the barn. The house will be a much longer project.
The rental will be ready for 2022. It’ll be a two bedroom little house with a garden. The location is fantastic as you can walk to 2 bakeries, 2 excellent restaurants and you’re 10 minutes from the Alpilles National Park and Saint Remy de Provence.
