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Foodie Moments in Corsica Series: Zonza

March 20, 2018 by ashleyt 3 Comments

Zonza

This is the first part of a five-part Eating in Corsica series about specific restaurants and food moments that we experienced on the “île de beauté” as it’s called in France, last autumn. This island is known for its love of meaty deliciousness; therefore, vegetarians, you might want to skip this one.

zonza curious provence

Zonza is close to the beautiful Aiguilles de Bavella mountains. From here, you can see the way to the sea. A must if you’re staying in the area.

Straight from the ferry, we drove from Porte Vecchio to Zonza, an hour drive from the coast into the mountainous interior. We asked our Airbnb host where to eat and he mentioned the restaurant right next door to our apartment. This, we later learned, was indeed very good and we were tortured for our 3 day stay with the smells of the meaty stews creeping up the stairway from the downstairs kitchen. However, the experience didn’t compare to the feast we had at A Pignata.

porte vecchio curious provence

Arriving at Porte Vecchio on an early September morning on the Marseille-Corsica ferry.

A Sneaky Tourist Office Employee

We asked at the tourism office where to go for lunch and I think because it was quiet and perhaps she was feeling generous, she leaned across the counter and whispered: “Normally, I’m not allowed to say about the restaurants.” We anxiously looked at each other. “But, we go to A Pignata. You have to reserve.”

Well, that had our curiosity peaked! I called immediately.

A Forest of Chestnuts

We then decided to go for a walk in the forest as we had ample time; we needed to stretch our legs after the ferry from Marseille. It was Sunday, so the gunshots he heard in the forest didn’t worry us too much after living in Provence for 4 years. It was, after all, hunting season on an island known for hunting aficionados. The forest floor was thick with the spiky cases and smooth interiors of chestnuts. A wild pig’s dream. Indeed, we saw signs everywhere of wild boar, their tell-tale digging a common complaint from friends in Provence lucky enough to have gardens.

After about a couples kilometers of walking, we came to a bend in the path where a large older man sat on a rock holding a rather large rifle. I came to a halt. Worried to make a sound, and therefore scaring potential lunch away (not to mention being accidentally shot!); We warily approached him as he asked in his deep Corsican accent if we had seen any boar around.

He seemed more preoccupied with eating the animal rather than killing it as he went on to describe in great detail the feast they would have if he and his friends were successful that day. Robin saw how excited I was becoming by allowing myself to imagine joining in on such an authentic activity and had to pull me away before I started begging to be invited. The old man smiled as we heard more gunshots in the distance and remained sat heavily on his rock watching the path ahead.

Lost with the Wild Boar

Caught up in admiring the small arbusier (strawberry tree) fruits on the trees, the mysterious stone terracing in the middle of the forest, the purple crocuses and the unbelievable amount of chestnuts on the ground as well as the curiously coloured geckos, we found ourselves lost in the Corsican forest on our first day on the island. Trudging along, we stopped as we were amazed to see a whole family of wild boar sniffing the ground at the edge of the path. They quickly moved on as we wished them good luck!

Thankfully, after some time, we came upon a gentleman that insisted on taking us to the right path and telling us all about his life’s travels along the way. Upon reaching Zonza, and recognizing the cheese wheels I had noticed earlier on our temporary neighbour’s windowsill, I breathed a sigh of relief. We wouldn’t be late for lunch.

A Pignata Restaurant

This restaurant is located just 10 minutes from Zonza. It is also a charming farm auberge. The long, communal picnic tables look out over the surrounding mountainous landscape. There is only one set menu. It is rustic and copious.

eating in corsica zonza

soup curious provence

A Corsican Meal

First, we had buttery smooth butternut squash soup and locally cured dried sausage. We were then presented with slow cooked lamb on the bone, cannelloni stuffed with brocciu (fresh Corsican cheese), and large butter beans. Then, a beautiful platter of various local sheep and goat cheeses.  With our bellies busting, we waddled into the sunshine for light, crispy sugar doughnuts with coffee on the terrace. Wonderful.

meal corsica curious provence

Corsican perfection.

corsican cheese curious provence

Oddly, the resident cat knew the exact moment to arrive for the cheese course. It sat rigth next to me on the bench and purred adorably. It succeeded in its mission.

Not a bad first day in Corsica.

a pignata curious provence

A Pignata is located in the countryside about a 10-minute drive from Zonza.

A PIGNATA – Route des sites archéologiques de Cucuruzzu – 20170 Levie – Corse

Coming soon: Eating Adventures in Sartène, Corsica.

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Filed Under: Corsica, Eats around the World Tagged With: corsica eats, eating in corsica, foodie abroad, foodie travels, restaurants corsica, restaurants zonza

« Provence Vacation Photography
A Cheatsheet to Corsican Cuisine »

Comments

  1. Lynn Tinker Toye says

    March 22, 2018 at 12:14 pm

    Lovely

    Reply
  2. Cherstinne says

    March 31, 2018 at 8:10 am

    The Bavella mountains are loved by the Corsicans for chrystal clear tiny rivers and nature´s own pools perfect for picnics and swims for hot days unlike the tourists who think vacation is by the sea.The mountain swims are not indicated on maps you will have to make friends with the locals. I found my paradise while staying at hotel La Solenzara at Solenzara just below the Bavellas on island´s eastern coast.

    Reply

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  1. A Cheatsheet to Corsican Cuisine - Curious Provence says:
    March 20, 2018 at 6:54 pm

    […] the next month, I’ll be sharing food experiences during our stay in Corsica each week. Read the first experience about our first meal, (and feast!) on the […]

    Reply

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Curious Provence

8 hours 4 minutes ago

Living in Provence or moving here and wanting to reach out to other expats? Here are some suggestions on where to find them:
http://curiousprovence.com/meeting-expats-in-provence/

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We live in Vaucluse at the foot of mont Ventoux if anyone wants any advice / friend ship

 1 - 5 hours 36 minutes ago

Thank you very much for this post. I saved it for (perhaps) one day when I do relocate. :-)

 1 - 5 hours 25 minutes ago

Hi Ashley. Reading your website you mention a group of women who live in Avignon Uzès Nimes. I can’t find the group page on FB. Can you assist please? Thx

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Curious Provence

16 hours 3 minutes ago

Yesterday evening, in the golden sunshine, we visited Fromagerie Roumanille in St Remy de Provence. The owners, Melanie and Jean-Marc, are truly passionate about their work. You can taste the cheeses, ice cream as well as the pork products. It’s rare to find farmers with cattle and pork here in Provence where goats are normally more popular. The cows 🐄 are curious and friendly! We got licked quite a lot 😂. This grass-fed, small herd are raised completely organic. You can buy their cheese and yogurt at their farm shop, the market in St Remy on Saturday, and the special fridge in the St Remy Intermarche just for them! Merci Melanie et Jean-Marc pour votre accueil ! Fromagerie roumanille @ Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

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Le beù qui etait à Bidaine à la retraite est né dans l estive de son papa dans les pyrenées💜

10 hours 54 minutes ago

Those cows have good taste 😂

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