a Curious Canadian in Provence
If you’re in Provence for the holiday season for the first time, you’ll notice that Christmas is not celebrated with the same gusto as in Northern parts of France or colder climates in general. However, there are some fantastic markets to get you into the mood for gorging on artisan chocolates and whatever else takes your fancy. I’m providing both the most interesting November and December events in Provence here so that you can plant to visit the markets that interest you the most.
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Curious about in the ins and outs of working in a market in Provence?
Do you want to taste the best Provencal ingredients?
Would you like to eat breakfast at the market with the workers?
Tours are about 2.5 hours in the towns of St Remy de Provence and Eygalières. There’s lots of tasting to be done so come hungry! Tours are private and cost 70€ per person. Send me an email to ask about availabilities. curiousprovence@gmail.com
organic tomatoes
The quality of the produce is impressive here in Provence. However, all produce is not created equal. The first year I was here, I grew many of my own vegetables. I later wondered why I went through all that trouble. There are some producer’s markets where farmers sell their pickings from that very morning. How can you tell? They still have a heartbeat. Ok, not really but almost. All I can say is that after 4 years here, I can easily tell which veggies are exceedingly versus very fresh. I go to these 3 markets when I want to make sure I’m getting the best quality for the best prices. Also, may I point out that these products are cheaper as well as better quality. Many of the stands at farmer’s markets (including cheese and meat) specialise in one product. A Farmer’s market is more of a buy your veggies and leave affair, but I’ve included possible days out as well. Here are 3 of the best farmer’s markets in Provence.
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Traditional Dancing
Every year Robin and I visit the weekend-long Christmas market that takes place in Sénas. I love this market. It’s so different than any of the others in the small towns in the Bouches du Rhône or Vaucluse regions. You really get into the Christmas spirit with the German influence that comes from the costumed Alsatian stallholders. There are over 100 stalls selling crafts, artisanal food products from Provence as well as Alsace.
The producer’s market in Sénas (in Provence they pronounce the final ‘s’ here) is by far my favourite producer’s market. I can show up in the morning with a pocket full of small change and leave with bags full of the freshest produce possible. Everything here is strictly in season and when you go regularly, you can see the subtle changes from week to week in the produce- even in the winter. Those who have grown or made their own product proudly present every unique market table here. My favourite stalls are those that sell only one item, as you can be sure there has been the utmost care put into producing or creating that product.
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