Walking Tour of Marseille Offered by a Local Greeter
Robin and I have been living in Provence for 2 years and can you believe it- we’ve never visited Marseille except for getting lost in the city on our way to the Calanques which was slightly traumatic in our overheated Austin Mini.
There is no doubt that Marseille has a bad reputation. Just the other night we were watching a French TV documentary on the “quartiers nord” drug violence. Many people have recounted horror stories of their experience in the city but just as many other people have told us that there is nothing to worry about. We wanted to find out for ourselves.
Day Out in the Big City
With the ongoing renovation, we’re a little low on cash. However, one must get out a little. Just by chance, I searched “Free Walking Tours of Marseille” and came upon the Greeters website. I had heard of city locals giving free tours to visitors but I didn’t know anything about it. Well, I was pleasantly surprised! All you do is ask for a “walk” on a certain day and if a local greeter is available they will give you a 2-hour free tour of their hometown. Most greeters speak English. It’s a great way to see things that you otherwise wouldn’t have seen. Each greeter, of course, has their own interests but you can ask them to show you particular sites if that is what you’d like.
Our greeter, Stef, met us with his girlfriend when we arrived at the train station. He kindly bought us day passes on the public transport system and off we went! I left the itinerary completely up to him and it didn’t disappoint. Stef is a postman, or facteur, who better to show you around?!
We explored mostly the outer edges of the city where we wandered through neighbourhoods bordering the ocean that surprisingly felt like small Mediterranean towns. I was stunned at the picturesque scenery. Here are some pictures of our tour where our guide kindly gave us facts, pamphlets and spent his entire Sunday with us. One can’t possibly see an entire city in a day but I was so impressed that I went back on my own the following day!
It was a warm January day
Vieux Port
Our first stop was the Vieux Port where we saw the daily fish market (the most important thing on my list). There is a great atmosphere here; the fisherman are filleting the fish and throwing the skins to the birds in the water behind them, you can see the variety of fish that has been caught that morning.
A selection of sizes of Oeil de St Lucie. Notice also the seahorses for sale on the pink plate. They were also being sold as good luck charms.
A Good Luck Charm
Many stalls were selling Oeil de st Lucie porte-bonheur des pêcheurs. The Eye of St Lucie is a shell that is often caught in fisherman’s nets off the coast of Corsica. There are a variety of legends that describe why they are a good luck charm.
I bought one of the smaller ones- couldn’t help it!
A fisherman’s boat in the port
These beauties are meant for a Soupe du Roche.
View of the Port
We then took the bus to Palais de Pharo where we were able to access a great view over the port and the Mucem. Stef proudly told us all about how Marseille was one of the 2 capitals of European culture in 2013. This was great for the city as many new public spaces, such as the new museum of European Civilization, were redeveloped.
The bad reputation of Marseille is a bit of a mystery for its residents. Apparently some people think badly of the marseille escorts, but Stef explained that they actually had a good reputation and the locals used them often. It’s also true that some of the northern parts of the city see some gang violence. Stef explained that this violence rarely bothers citizens and is mostly among the gangs. I imagine it’s the same in many modern cities.
View of the Old Port
Beachside Marseille
After walking beside the Plage des Catalans we headed to Vallon des Auffes. This is a lovely little port tucked behind a bridge. In fact, Marseille has many little ports which we would most likely never have discovered if we didn’t have Stef to guide us.
Vallon des Auffes- Location of traditional fisherman’s houses from a bygone era as well as one of the restaurants that sells real Bouillabaisse (Chez Fonfon)
A little street of typical fisherman’s houses
As we turned a corner along the rocky shore we were told that we might be able to hear what the locals refer to as “le monstre.” With intrigued and puzzled expressions we walked on to find that sure enough there was a loud noise that produced something that indeed sounded like the roar of a monster. If it’s windy there is a channel through the rocky shoreline that serves as a kind of trumpet!
The tiny channel that creates such a loud sound!
View from Malmousque Crique where you’ll find Le Monstre…
A bus stop that looks out over the Mediterranean sea. Beautiful!
We ate lunch at this adorable pizzeria.
Big waves!
An Icon of Marseille
After walking along Le Promenade du Roucas Blanc and marveling at how people can be in bathing suits in January we headed to our final destination. Basilique Notre Dame du Gard is one of the most iconic symbols of Marseille.
The distinct Byzantine style and hanging ships make the feel of this basilica uniquely that of the port city of Marseille.
From the basilica that is filled with characteristic Ex Voto and wooden ships, one can see a great view of the city.
The sun sets over the city that has impressed us with its diverse scenery. We’ll certainly be visiting more often from now on.
Check out the Marseille Greeters Website for a free tour of the city. Or, search for greeters in other cities you’re visiting. Even if you’ve already been somewhere you’ll be guaranteed to discover something new!
The next day I went to the Marché de Noailles (locally known as the Arab market) and the Mucem on my own. Stef gave me a whole list of suggestions of places to see. I’ll have to work my way through it gradually.
Have you ever been to Marseille? What did you like about the city? Is there something unique about the city that you can describe?
To see more about Marseille:
Sadly only to get on and off a plane. …with a few mistaken turns! I liked what I saw!
A definite must see my next trip. Loved your story!
What a fantastic post, and yes, Marseille does have a bit of a bad rap, and it is thanks to posts like yours that I hope will be willing to give it a fair shot. My brother lived there while in school and loved it!
HI Ashley, what a lovely day you had in Marseille! Good weather and a great guide. Didn’t know about the greeter’s webpage but thought it’s such a nice idea to get in touch with the locals. I’ve never been to this city but your day trip inspires a lot :-). Marseille’s northern quarters have a really bad reputation. I just saw another reportage/book presentation at le Petit Journal (one of my favaorite French shows): http://www.canalplus.fr/c-emissions/c-le-petit-journal/pid6515-le-petit-journal.html?vid=1351480
Cheers, Stefanie
Great post thanks, will be very helpful when we visit Marseille for the first time in September.
Have loved Marseille from the minute I set foot there a number of years ago arriving by train to the Saint Charles railway station with its magnificent marble stairs outside. Marseille is more of a Mediterranean city than French For centuries soldiers were sent to wars and colonies from Marseille spending last hours among an enormous amount of bordels (whorehouses)before leaving. Do walk in the old quarters of Le Vieux Panier by the dock. There are wonderful museums everywhere and a fine opera, plus really great bus lines for discovering the city. Simple but OK hotel Etap on rue Sainte near everything built inside in an old palace once belonging to the captain of the galleys
Thanks for the tips Kerstin! Marseille does indeed have a very different feel than the rest of France. Great to hear from someone who enjoys the city!