Searching for Langoustine in Centuri, Corsica
This village is close to the very Northern tip of Corsica, the jagged, long parcel of land with sea views at all points. Make sure to stop here along the road at the many expansive beaches with sand made of from granite.
Centuri is a quaint fishing village surrounded by mountains with tons of stunning walking trails. A bar owner in Saint Remy de Provence gave me the name of a hotel restaurant that specialises in langoustine. As a matter of fact, langoustine is a speciality from this area. What my acquaintance didn’t tell me is that due to overfishing and all the guidebooks extolling the virtues of this delicious crustacean, there are very few to be had. A specialised fisherman may only catch a couple a day. This means that they’re exponentially expensive. We never tried them. I’ll have to wait until we win the lottery. If you’d like to try them, word on the street is Le Vieux Moulin is the place to go.
An Evening in Centuri
The sea was turbulent but we saw a sunny spot on the granite rocks at the end of the pier separating the fishing port from the grand blue. The sand on the beaches here in Northern Corsica as made from granite. I watched as a fisherman lovingly painted his entire dingy with a small paintbrush. We sipped wine at the café opposite.
There was a commotion as a man on the dock somehow managed to pull an octopus out of the water with his bare hands. He held the animal out to his daughter who squealed as he lost his grip. The octopus was gone. Nothing was open so a restaurant sold us a bottle of white to take away and kindly lent us the glasses too. Three glasses. We had started talking to a young Sicilian fisherman at the end of the pier. He has a chef taking a break between shifts at the restaurant. We offered him wine and we talked about his homeland while the sea crashed on the rocks just below us and dusk began to fall. We snacked on cheese and tomatoes as the stars slowly appeared.
Corsica has a perfect wildness to it.