a curious canadian in provence
If you’re in Provence for the holiday season for the first time, you’ll notice that Christmas is not celebrated with the same gusto as in Northern parts of France or colder climates in general. However, there are some fantastic markets to get you into the mood for gorging on artisan chocolates and whatever else takes your fancy. I’m providing the best events for both November and December here so that you can organize visiting the markets that interest you the most.
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There was a little commotion yesterday morning at Saint Remy de Provence market. Gilles, the oyster and mussel vendor, placed a large tub of tellines at the front of his stall. First to notice, with coffees in hand at 8 am, were the other foraines (market workers). Some even stopped in the middle of the bise* greetings to make their way over to Gilles’ stall. Threats were made to keep some for them. The lip-smacking in anticipation for dinner started particularly early.
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The contents of my vegbox in Provence. Delivered to my door every Friday.
Have you seen how ridiculous this Provençal version of a vegbox is? This was in September. We started receiving our vegbox during the summer when I found out that half my street also gets the same parcel delivered once a week by a local Paysan. Why didn’t anyone tell me sooner?
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August is a quiet month in Provence where everyone believes it to be their right to do absolutely nothing that requires any energy (other than catching up with friends, sunbathing by the pool or on the beach)
In September, there are plenty of festivals to attend and there’s a new crowd of tourists. I think this is one of the best times of the year to visit Provence. I’ve included here a list of the events that I think offer the best of Provence, I hope you get to see some of them and if you do, let me know what you think!
Personally, we’ll be off for the month to Montréal Canada, Portland Maine USA and Iceland. For those of you with an unquenchable thirst for the loveliness that is Provence, you’ll have to forgive me as my daily photos on Instagram and Facebook will of Montreal markets and street scenes, US lighthouses and perhaps Icelandic volcanoes!
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I’m originally a fine art photographer. Black and white film is my weapon of choice.
Café de la Place in Saint Remy de Provence will be holding a vernissage with some of my prints on Thursday, July 7th. If you’re in the area, don’t hesitate to stop by for a glass of wine, a chat and prepared to be inspired by, of all things, Spaghetti…
Photo by Valerie Lafleche.
See my photography website for more of my work.
**The next Transhumance in Saint Remy de Provence is Monday, June 5th
This morning Robin and I drove over the Alpilles to see the Transhumance pass through the town of Saint Remy de Provence. The Transhumance is when, in the Spring, the sheep from the southern plains are led back up to the cooler mountains to graze on the fresh grass there. There are 2000 sheep that pass through the small town of Saint Remy; it’s quite the site to see!
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Just about every village in Provence has a weekly market. Some villages have markets that occur twice a week or even daily! Markets are absolutely my favourite part of living in Provence. We can easily spend a day wandering through the stalls and people watching as we sit at a wonky table with a couple glasses of rosé. The weekly market is a ritual that is truly part of living in Provence. On Sundays, you’ll see whole families shopping together as kids amazingly express great interest in the new vegetables of the season. Here are my 9 favourite Provençal markets.
Seasonal mushrooms at Le Thor market
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The treasure and charm of antique doors.
It seems that we like to make our lives difficult; dating for 5 years long distance Montreal-London, moving to a new country without proper jobs, buying a tiny house in a rural village and now- trying to find beautiful Patina antique doors for our new home.
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Saint Remy’s Marche de Noel
St Remy de Provence’s weekend-long Christmas market started Friday evening and will be open until tomorrow evening. The stalls are set up in front of the Marie (town hall) where you’ll find boudin blanc, fougasse, quality wheels of cheese, honey, pain d’épice, champagne, artisans and more!
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